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April 18. 2012 10:32AM

Returning to an old Manchester favorite


 
Brought to you by The Union Leader has three teams of reviewers checking out restaurants around the state. They grade on a scale of 100 points, typically in five categories.

It had been far too long since we last visited this classy little Greek restaurant right in downtown Manchester, but the authenticity of the Greek dishes there will bring us back. It's as comfortable as slipping into your favorite hoodie and watching the midnight early-summer stars.

Atmosphere 14/20

It is not the most plush of restaurants, and shows its age in spots, but Athens is as enduring as its long history in the Queen City. Traditional blue-and-white Greek decorations and booths are a mainstay in the dining room, adjacent to a large function room. Deep-set booth seating creates privacy among nearly a score of tables in the main dining room. 14/20

Appetizers: 16/20

Our Gourmet: We shared a Greek Salad for Two and some stuffed cabbage leaves, and the Stuffed Cabbage ($9.95) was quite the tasty starter. Steamy hot, tasty soft cabbage wrapped around a very filling stuffing of ground lamb, ground beef, rice and herbs, accompanied by (on request) both the traditional Greek lemon sauce and a zesty roastedtomato sauce. 8/10

The Dining Companion: Nothing like a huge Greek salad to get you in the mood for your meal. A very fresh, nicely prepared bowl full of greens, feta cheese, Kalamata olives, tomatoes, sliced peppers, red onions under a slightly underwhelming oil-and-vinegar based Greek dressing. Warm bread accompanied our appetizers, which was tasty but ill-served by little plastic containers of butter. But, thankfully, the butter inside was not refrigerated to an unmanageable, semi-frozen state. 8/10

Menu: 15/20

OG: There's plenty for the hungry, even the plenty-hungry, at Athens, as roasted and baked pork and lamb dishes dominate the hearty offerings. A few specialty dishes can run into the $20s, but most all dinners are between $13 and $17, including various cuts of lamb and pork — ribs, shoulder, leg and chops — served with a variety of favorite Greek side dishes, such as rice, potatoes, lima beans and the all-in vegetable Garnish. Other tempting offerings include the Tenderloin (or lamb or pork) on a Stick, Prime Rib, Sirloin Steak and a nice choice of fish and chicken dinners.

TDC: If Greek specialties are among your favorites, Athens features Mousaka, Pastitsio (baked macaroni casserole), Spinach Pie, Stuffed Grape Leaves, Greek Meatballs in all manner of combinations, and all of those specialty Greek dinners are under $14.

Entrees 15/20

OG: My Roasted Leg of Lamb ($16.95) was one of the heartiest meals I can remember. A mound of roasted lamb chunks, atop a large bed of rice with just a hint of tomato sauce, accompanied by the full Garnish, which is another very large serving of assorted vegetables, including beans and celery and potato. The leftover sauce from the cabbage leaves was a nice accompaniment to all that lamb, and there followed two sandwiches for lunch the next day — a great value. 8/10

TDC: My favorite Greek dish ever, Mousaka ($13.50) came as an almost overwhelming entree that I hardly made a dent in ... but again, there was a very nice-sized leftover portion. This baked eggplant casserole is a layered creation, with spiced lamb filling and topped with a creamy bechamel sauce, herbs and what tasted like a touch of cinnamon. Baked to perfection, this is another very hearty dish.
Appetizers and salad with bread not recommended. 7/10

Service, Value 14/10

OG: It was not crowded this weekend night at Athens and no reservations were needed, although I had called ahead. Our server was quick and friendly and eager to please, and easily answered our questions about food preparation. We were well-served at our own pace, a very pleasant dining experience. 7/10

TDC: Good value at Athens, considering our meal came to under $68 before gratuity — including appetizer, salad, entrees and one glass of wine and one American beer. Dessert was out of the question, although the Rice Pudding and Baklava would be on our short list next time. 7/10

Total 74/100

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